First Ascent of Annapurna I, the First 8,000-Metre Summit
| Event date | 3 June 1950 |
|---|---|
| Location | Annapurna I (8,091 m), north face |
| Type | Major historical event |
| Verification | Verified |
| Status | Historical |
A French expedition led by Maurice Herzog made the first ascent of Annapurna I on 3 June 1950, when Herzog and Louis Lachenal reached the summit. It was the first time anyone had climbed a mountain higher than 8,000 metres, three years before Everest.
The expedition spent weeks just finding the mountain, working from poor maps, and the descent turned into an ordeal. Both summiteers suffered severe frostbite, and the expedition doctor later amputated most of Herzog’s fingers and toes and Lachenal’s toes during the retreat. The climb made Annapurna famous and also marked the start of its reputation as one of the most dangerous big peaks, largely because of avalanche risk on its standard routes.
Sources
Last reviewed 29 September 2026. Written in Merolog’s own words from the sources listed; where sources disagree, each figure is attributed rather than merged. Spotted an error or a newer figure? Leave a comment on this entry.